The national clothing of the Buryats consists of “dygil” - a kind of caftan made of dressed sheepskin, which has a triangular cutout on the top of the chest, trimmed, as well as the sleeves, tightly clasping the hand, with fur, sometimes very valuable; In the summer, some Buryats replace the “dygil” with a cloth caftan of a similar cut.

In the summer, dressing gowns are in great use, the poor have paper ones, and the rich have silk ones. The left floor was folded over the right side and fastened on the side. The robe was belted with a leather or fabric belt. In inclement times, in addition to the dygil in Transbaikalia, a “saba” is worn, a type of overcoat with a long kragen; and in the cold season, especially on the road, “dakha,” a type of wide robe made from tanned skins, with the wool facing out. The dygil (degil) is tied at the waist with a belt, on which hang a knife and smoking accessories: a flint, a hansa (a small pipe with a short chibouk) and a tobacco pouch. Buryats are big hunters of smoking, so everyone smokes, not excluding women and children.

Underwear - pants and shirt - Russian cut. Tight and long trousers are made of rough leather (rovduga); The shirt, usually made of blue wool, is not washed or taken off until worn out by the majority of the population. The shoes consist of “high boots”, something like boots made from the skins of foals - or ordinary boots; In summer, in some areas, shoes are worn knitted from horsehair with leather soles. Men and women cover their heads with a round gray hat with small brims and a red tassel at the top. Men usually cut their hair short; some wear small braids, Lamaist clergy shave their heads.

Women's clothing differs from men's clothing in decoration and embroidery; Thus, for women, the dygil is wrapped around with colored cloth, on the back - at the top, embroidery in the form of a square is made with cloth, and, in addition, copper and silver decorations from buttons and coins are sewn onto the clothes. There are no such decorations in Transbaikalia; women's robes consist of a short jacket sewn to a skirt; Buddhist women who have taken a famous spiritual vow wear red cloth ribbons over their shoulders. The girl’s costume is distinguished by the absence of “uji” (a type of sleeveless vest that all women must wear over the dygil) and a headdress - a hoop decorated with coral and silver.

The Buryat women put a lot of effort into decorating their heads: in the absence of long natural hair, they are replaced by horsehair; married women braid their hair in two braids, often connecting them with a metal ring; the ends of the braids are placed in velvet covers, decorated with corals and silver, and descend to the chest; girls have 10 to 20 braids, decorated with many coins; Buryat women wear corals, silver and gold coins around their necks. Huge earrings hang in the ears, supported by a cord thrown over the head, and “poltas” (pendants) are visible behind the ears; on the hands are silver or copper “bugaki” (a type of bracelet in the form of hoops), etc. All jewelry, and especially head jewelry, vary greatly in the degree of wealth and place of residence

30-09-2017

Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

On September 29, at the main book fair of Buryatia, “Book Salon-2017,” the Ethnographic Museum of the Peoples of Transbaikalia held a presentation of a book about the traditional festive women’s Buryat costume. It was accompanied by a colorful fashion show, which illustrated the contents of the publication live. The girls demonstrating their outfits created a sensation and, at numerous requests from the public, came out for an encore, reports IA Buryaad Ynen.

“It is important for us to show that the Buryats wore beautiful festive costumes and were worthy of wearing them. Indeed, the collection that we presented, on which we worked so hard, speaks of what beautiful, festive, comfortable, thoughtful and adapted clothing our ancestors wore,” says Svetlana Shobolova, director of the Ethnographic Museum.

Models presented festive costumes of different Buryat groups: Khori, Songols, Sartuls, Khongodors, Ekhirits and Bulagats. Participated in the creation of the collection Dashima Gonchikova, master of sewing Buryat national costumes from the Aginsky fashion house. Famous jewelers were hired to make jewelry - Alexandra Chinbata, Vladimir Suvorov, Nimou Budozhapov, Edward Kuklina. Each of them prepared traditional jewelry for representatives of certain clans. Thus, Eduard Kuklin worked on the Ekhirit and Bulagat ones.

A traditional women's costume reflected the age, marital status and social status of its owner, as well as territorial and local characteristics. But at the same time, it was ideally adapted to the living conditions of that time.

“It seems to me that seeing today how beautiful it is, every woman will want to just wear this costume that our ancestors wore on any special occasion, be it Sagaalgan, anniversaries, weddings of sons or daughters. This will be worthy of their memory and respect. Any Buryat woman will always look beautiful in her national costume,” Svetlana Shobolova is sure.

The cost of one suit is 150 thousand rubles. This amount includes the festive outfit itself, a headdress, shoes and a full set of jewelry.

“Next year we plan to supplement the present collection with men’s festive suits. Then it will be a large, complete collection. Of course, they are very expensive - these are festive costumes, not the ones worn in everyday life. They were worn on special occasions. It seems to me that our ancestors lived very beautifully and richly,” said the acting governor. Minister of Culture Timur Tsybikov.

Festive women's costume Hori Buryat.Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

In women's clothing, the chori bodice was straight to the waist, with deep armholes and wide sleeves at the base. The sleeves themselves were composite: the wide bases in the shoulder part were pulled together into a thick gathering, forming puffs; they narrowed towards the elbows, and here the lower part of the sleeves, called tokhonog - “elbow”, was sewn. It was sewn from fabric of a different color or patterned brocade. The sleeves ended with cuffs - turuu. For elegant clothes, they were made from plush and velvet. Old-timers associate the name “turuu” with the design of the cuffs, which repeated the shape of the horse’s hoof (turuu).

Cuff (turuu)clothes of the Hori-Buryat women.Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

The decor of the Khori-Buryat clothes was on the sleeves and hem, and the bodice was trimmed with narrow trim along the edge. The collar was decorated with patterned decorative fabric, red brocade or silk, black velvet, otter fur or white lambskin.

The sleeveless jacket was a mandatory part of the clothing of married women, both ordinary and festive. People believed that a woman should not show her hair and back to the sky in the same way. Therefore, a woman’s head should be covered with a cap and her back with a sleeveless vest.

There are two types of sleeveless vests - a short sleeveless vest (uuzha) with deep cut armholes, a narrow back, a straight slit in the front, with converging hems, and a long sleeveless vest (morin uuzha). Among the Khorin Buryats, the morin uuzha was the same short sleeveless vest with a gathered skirt sewn onto it. It was made from two panels, leaving slits in the front and back for convenience when riding. The material was silk or cotton fabric. The junction of the top and bottom of the sleeveless vest was also decorated.

Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

Festive women's Tsongol costume.Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

In Tsongol women's clothing, the bodice was also straight, but its bottom in front and on the back was cut out with a toe. The sleeves were also two-piece and puffed, but their upper part was slightly shorter and narrower than that of the hori.

Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

The hem (horma) was long and wide, and it was sewn from straight fabrics, the number of which depended on the width of the fabric. The upper edge was pulled together into a thick gather. Tsongols are characterized by uuzha.

Festive women's sartul costume.Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

The Sartuls had the same bodice as the Tsongols. The sleeves of the outerwear were again composite, but they were made without puffs, and were sewn on, folded into folds. The hem was folded. Sartul women also preferred uuzha.

Festive women's costume of Hongodors.Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

The Hongodor bodice sagged towards the bottom. The sleeves were sewn like those of the sartuls. The hem was the same as that of the Tsongols. And Hongodor women wore uuzha.

Festive women's costume of the Ekhirites.Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

The bodice was straight to the waist, like the Buryat Hori, but the armholes and bases of the sleeves were much narrower. The sleeves of the clothes of ehiritok and bulagatok were solid, i.e. non-composite, like those of the Transbaikal Buryats. In the Baikal region, the sleeves were pulled down and the hem was folded. The ends of the sleeves in front of the cuffs were pulled together into gathers and decorated with strips of colored fabrics and velvet.

Western Buryats used a wide decorative patch on the bodice. It occupied the entire upper part of the chest, was visible in the triangular cut of the degel and the diverging hems of the flared khubaisi - a continuous one-piece sleeveless vest with a slit in the front. The seam connecting the top and hem was not decorated.

Decoration onoo.Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

The sleeveless jacket along the edge of the armhole, along the neckline and chest was trimmed with strips of thin black cloth, with mother-of-pearl buttons sewn on them. Strips of black cloth were also sewn along the line connecting the bodice and hem, narrow in front and wide on the back. An onoo decoration was attached to the top of the back, consisting of a leather base, trimmed with thin red cloth and with rectangular metal plates attached to it. Diamond-shaped hanging plates were attached to them.

Festive women's costume bulagat.Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

Among the Bulagats, khubaisi were predominantly common. When straightened, the hem forms a semicircle, into which triangular wedges were inserted, depending on the width. Hubaisi had side and shoulder seams. The back was sometimes made of two halves with a narrow fabric. The sides of the front part were trimmed with braid or strip made of cloth or satin, predominantly black. An elegant sleeveless vest was decorated along the front with silver coins or mother-of-pearl buttons.

Photo by Anna Ogorodnik

Let us note that these costumes were previously presented at the exhibition “Traditions Timeless,” held at the Ethnographic Museum in August-September. The exhibition aroused genuine interest among visitors at the Book Salon; people were very interested in the details and tailoring, the differences between the costumes.

“This collection is shown in relatively free access. It will be possible to study it in more detail up close. Unlike the collection of historical costumes that are kept in the National Museum. We limit access to them,” said Timur Tsybikov.

The Ethnographic Museum plans to hold lectures on traditional costume. Those interested will be able to come to them and learn all the nuances of sewing a traditional costume, as well as the meaning of all its elements.

The material was prepared by Anna Ogorodnik together with the Ethnographic Museum of the Peoples of Transbaikalia

Anna Ogorodnik

NATIONAL BURYAT COSTUME FEATURES OF BURYAT CLOTHING The Buryat national costume is part of the centuries-old culture of the Buryat people. It reflects its culture, aesthetics, pride and spirit. Both women and men were engaged in the production of Buryat clothing. The tailor had to have a lot of knowledge and skills, in particular, he was an artist and embroiderer, glued and quilted, was engaged in dressing skins, knew patterns and colors. Traditional Buryat men's clothing is presented in two types - degel (winter robe) and terlig (summer). Outerwear was straight-backed. The main material for winter clothing was sheepskin, which was edged with velvet and other fabrics. The everyday degel was covered with cotton fabric, and the festive one was covered with silk and velvet. In turn, degels have two floors - the top (gadar hormoi) and the bottom (dotor hormoi), the back (ara tala), the front, the bodice (seezhe), the sides (enger). A man's robe was usually made from blue, sometimes brown, dark green, or burgundy fabrics. The main decor of men's outerwear was on the chest part of the upper coat (enger). The design of the enger is stable, although there were elements of territorial and clan differences. A mandatory attribute of a man's robe were belts, varied in material, manufacturing technique and size. The upper part to the waist is like a large pocket. In the deep bosom of their clothes, people kept a bowl in a soft case - in this way they ensured personal hygiene. At any time and in any yurt you could use your own dishes for aromatic tea or rich broth. The national clothing of the Mongols and Buryats is well adapted to the nomadic lifestyle. The length of the degel covers the legs both when walking and when riding, which prevents the legs from freezing even in severe frost. The clothes are not only ideal for riding, but can also serve as an emergency bed - you can lie down on one floor and hide on the other. There are about 400 types of degels, 20 types of national shoes and 10 types of belts. Women's clothing (robe, sleeveless vest) has age-related characteristics; it strictly corresponds to the age of women, changes in accordance with the transition from one age to another and with changes in position in society and family. Girls wore long terligs or winter degels, girded with fabric sashes that emphasized their thin, flexible waist. Everyday sashes were made from dalemba, and elegant sashes were made from striped silk. At the age of 14-15 years, girls change their hairstyle and the cut of the dress, which is cut off at the waist, and the decorative braid of the tuuz covers the seam line around the waist. The girl's suit was missing a sleeveless vest. When girls get married, they braid two braids, in accordance with the rite of uhe zahaha (“hair braiding”). Close relatives of the groom and bridesmaids gather to perform this ritual. The hair is combed with the comb of the groom's mother, in contrast to the Russian ritual, where, on the contrary, two girls' braids were braided into one woman's. The type of jewelry of Buryat women is designed for a pair of braids. Women's wedding attire - degeley - is worn over the dress, leaving the front open, with a slit at the back of the hem. Married women's outerwear is cut off at the waist. Women's summer robes are most often made of blue comb; the seam line is covered only in the front part with decorative braid. The clothing of older women is characterized by simplified forms and decorations. Everyday robes are made from cheaper fabrics and dark shades; the sleeves are lighter than other outfits. The sleeveless vest (Uuzha) that complements the outfit is a mandatory element of the costume of a married woman of all Buryat tribes and clans. There are two types of snakes - short and long-haired. A short sleeveless vest (esegyn uuzha) ends at the waist; this is due to the ancient Buryat custom, when a woman in the presence of men, especially her father-in-law, could only appear with her head and back covered, that is, in a cap and sleeveless jacket. Women used bright fabrics with deep armholes, a narrow back, and a straight slit in the front. Long-brimmed uzhas are worn by the Cis-Baikal Buryats in the Ekhirit-Bulagatsky, Kachugsky, Olkhonsky regions, and by the Tunkinsky, Barguzinsky and Aginsky Buryats of Transbaikalia. Basically, to make such a sleeveless vest, a short version was taken, to which a long skirt trimmed at the waist with a slit at the back was sewn. This kind of uuzha is used for riding and is called morin uuzha. There are many interesting facts associated with sleeveless vests. Thus, during the time of Genghis Khan, the state regulated clothing and its colors. When cutting, the Mongols used a special measuring technique: by the color and quality of the fabric from which the clothes were made, it was possible to determine what class a person belonged to. “Malgai” headdress for Buryats is an object endowed with special sacredness. The shape of the headdress is hemispherical, repeating the shape of the vault of heaven and the surface of the yurt. The cap at the top ends with a “denze” - a hemispherical silver pommel with a red bead symbolizing the sun. Red silk tassels flow down from the bottom of the “danze” - a symbol of the life-giving rays of the sun. materialized in objective embodiment. Full symbolism of the top of the headdress “May my family multiply like the rays of the golden sun, may my life energy not dry up and flutter over me.” Men's clothing consisted of underwear and outerwear, hats, and shoes. The costume was completed with a belt, knife, flint and other items. It differed by season: winter and summer; by purpose - production, everyday smart. Traditional men's outerwear was straight back, i.e. not cut at the waist, with long hemlines flaring downwards. From one to three silver, coral, and gold buttons were sewn onto the collar. The next buttons were sewn on the shoulders, under the armpit and the lowest one - on the waist. The top buttons were considered to bring happiness and grace (khesheg buyan). During prayers and rituals, the buttons on the collar were unfastened so that grace could enter the body without obstacles. The middle buttons - yner bayanai - regulated the number of offspring, honor and dignity. The lower buttons were symbols of the fertility of livestock and the material wealth of the owner - hasheg buyanai. According to the views of the Buryats and Mongols, a person’s longevity depended even on how buttons were fastened. The canonical scheme of putting on and fastening - from bottom to top - starts from the shoes, then moves to the robe, while the buttons are fastened from bottom to top, and the hat is put on last. A must-have accessory for a man's dressing gown, varied in material, manufacturing technique and size. The utilitarian function of the belt is to gird a straight-cut men's robe. At the same time, the belt protected from the cold, which was impossible when riding a horse. Men's robes were made without pockets: with a belt, a bowl, pouch, pipe and other accessories were worn in the bosom. The belt served as a kind of corset, because during long riding, the back and waist received additional support and were protected from colds. The belts could be knitted, woven from sheep's wool in dark colors, and were wide and long in size. The length of the belt was determined to be two lengths of outstretched arms, three times the width from the thumbnail to the tip of the middle finger. The knife itself had a magical effect, as the ancients believed. His magical function was that he protected people from evil influences. If a boy was born, then a knife or blade was necessarily placed at the head of his cradle.

The national clothing of the Buryats consists of “dygil” - a kind of caftan made of dressed sheepskin, which has a triangular cutout on the top of the chest, trimmed, as well as the sleeves, tightly clasping the hand, with fur, sometimes very valuable; In the summer, some Buryats replace the “dygil” with a cloth caftan of a similar cut.

In Transbaikalia, in the summer, robes are in great use, the poor have paper ones, and the rich have silk ones. The left floor was folded over the right side and fastened on the side. The robe was belted with a leather or fabric belt. In inclement times, in addition to the dygil in Transbaikalia, a “saba” is worn, a type of overcoat with a long kragen; and in the cold season, especially on the road, “dakha,” a type of wide robe made from tanned skins, with the wool facing out. The dygil (degil) is tied at the waist with a belt, on which hang a knife and smoking accessories: a flint, a hansa (a small copper pipe with a short chibouk) and a tobacco pouch. Buryats are big hunters of smoking, so everyone smokes, not excluding women and children.

Underwear - pants and shirt - Russian cut. Tight and long trousers are made of rough leather (rovduga); The shirt, usually made of blue wool, is not washed or taken off until worn out by the majority of the population. The shoes consist of “high boots”, something like boots made from the skins of foals - or ordinary boots; In summer, in some areas, shoes are worn knitted from horsehair with leather soles. Men and women cover their heads with a round gray hat with small brims and a red tassel at the top. Men usually cut their hair short; some wear small braids, Lamaist clergy shave their heads.

Women's clothing differs from men's clothing in decoration and embroidery; Thus, for women, the dygil is wrapped around with colored cloth, on the back - at the top, embroidery in the form of a square is made with cloth, and, in addition, copper and silver decorations from buttons and coins are sewn onto the clothes. There are no such decorations in Transbaikalia; women's robes consist of a short jacket sewn to a skirt; Buddhist women who have taken a famous spiritual vow wear red cloth ribbons over their shoulders. The girl’s costume is distinguished by the absence of “uji” (a type of sleeveless vest that all women must wear over the dygil) and a headdress - a hoop decorated with coral and silver.

The Buryat women put a lot of effort into decorating their heads: in the absence of long natural hair, they are replaced by horsehair; married women braid their hair in two braids, often connecting them with a metal ring; the ends of the braids are placed in velvet covers, decorated with corals and silver, and descend to the chest; girls have 10 to 20 braids, decorated with many coins; Buryat women wear corals, silver and gold coins around their necks. Huge earrings hang in the ears, supported by a cord thrown over the head, and “poltas” (pendants) are visible behind the ears; on the hands are silver or copper “bugaki” (a kind of bracelets in the form of hoops), etc. All jewelry, and especially head jewelry, vary greatly in the degree of wealth and place of residence of Buryat women.

Buryat clothing Wikipedia
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The Buryat national costume is part of the centuries-old culture of the Buryat people. It reflects its aesthetics, culture, customs.

Traditions in the national clothing of the Buryats are associated, first of all, with the nomadic way of life and the harsh continental climate, with sudden changes in temperature. The national clothing of the Buryats is well adapted to the nomadic lifestyle.

Long rides in the saddle required clothing that would not restrict the rider’s movement. Cattle breeding determined the choice of materials from which clothing was made. Fur coats were made from sheepskins, boots from leather, stockings from wool, etc.

Wealthy Buryats made suits from expensive fabrics and furs (sable, Baikal seal, etc.), jewelry was made mainly from silver. By clothing it was possible to determine the social status, place of residence of a person and clan (Bulagats, Ekhirits, Khoris, Khongodors).

Traditional Buryat men's clothing is presented in two types - degel (winter robe) and terlig (summer).

The main material for winter clothing was sheepskin, which was covered with velvet and other fabrics. Everyday degel was made mainly from cotton fabric, and festive ones - from silk and velvet.

In turn, degels have two floors - the top (gadar hormoi) and the bottom (dotor hormoi), the back (ara tala), the front, the bodice (seezhe), the sides (enger). A man's robe was usually made from blue, sometimes brown, dark green, or burgundy fabrics.

The main decor of men's outerwear was on the chest part of the upper coat (enger), where three multi-colored stripes were sewn. The bottom is yellow-red (hua ungee), the middle is black (hara ungee), the top is varied: white (sagan ungee), green (nogon ungee) or blue (huhe ungee).

The original version was yellow-red, black, white. This division by color later formed the basis for the formation of clans (omog) - Huasai, Khargana, Sagaanguud.

A mandatory attribute of a man's robe were belts, varied in material, manufacturing technique and size.

Women's clothing consisted of a shirt - samsa and pants - umde, over which they wore a robe - degel. Clothing changed in accordance with the transition from one age to another, with changes in position in society, family, and strictly corresponded to the woman’s age.

Girls wore long terligs or winter degels, and were girded with fabric sashes that emphasized the waist.

At the age of 14-15 years, girls changed their hairstyle and the cut of the dress, which was cut off at the waist, and a decorative braid covered the seam line around the waist. The girl's suit was missing a sleeveless vest.

When girls got married, they braided two braids, in accordance with the rite of uhe zahaha (“hair braiding”).

Buryats: national costume for men and women, photo

Close relatives of the groom and bridesmaids gathered to perform this ritual.

Women's wedding attire - degeley - was worn over the dress, leaving the front open, with a slit at the back of the hem. For married women, the suit consisted of a gathered skirt and jacket, sewn at the waist level, the left floor was wrapped over the right and fastened at the collar, on the shoulder and on the right side, with special buttons - tobsho. The gate was a low stand or turn-down.

The sleeves were wide at the base and had gathers at the shoulder, trimmed with brocade and braid in the middle along the seam.

The top of the robe was covered with some kind of material, sometimes silk, and the degel always had a lining inside. The hem of the skirt and the edges of both floors and the jacket were trimmed with strips of colored fabric. Sometimes the hem was decorated with otter fur.
The sleeveless vest (uuzha) that complements the outfit is a mandatory element of the costume of a married woman of all Buryat tribes.

Among the Eastern Buryats, the sleeveless jacket - esegyn uuzha - was short and consisted of one vest. Among the Western Buryats, the sleeveless vest - seezhebshe or khubaisi - had a vest and a gathered skirt sewn to it. An elegant sleeveless vest was decorated along the front with silver coins or mother-of-pearl buttons. Like a robe, it was made with a lining. This detail of the costume played an important role in a woman’s life; she was not supposed to be shown to men without wearing a sleeveless vest, and she was also supposed to always wear a hat on her head.

Buryats attached great importance to jewelry.

Women's jewelry of the Eastern Buryats was distinguished by its complexity, multi-composition and multi-component nature. They were made mainly of silver with inserts of coral (pink coral was considered the most valuable), turquoise, and amber.

It is traditionally believed that the headdress of the Eastern Buryats is composed as follows: the upper part of the headdress represents the sky - tengeri, red tassels - the rays of the sun - naran, the lower part - the earth - gazar. Temple decorations and earrings falling onto the chest from the headdress symbolize the stars, sun, moon, rain, snow, etc. Neck and chest decorations (guu) have fertile symbolism and correspond to the Earth sign.

The most common decorations were: rings (behelig), rings (buluru), which were worn on almost all fingers, sometimes in several rows, with the exception of the middle finger.

The woman had silver bracelets on both hands. Bracelets and earrings were worn constantly, without taking them off. The chest decoration was a system of ornamented silver medallions (guu, urley ger) of a square shape (tebkher guu), triangular (zurkhen guu), as well as round and arched. They usually contained prayers in the Tibetan language as amulets.

A characteristic feature of head decorations is the abundance of temporal-breast decorations made of coral beads and silver (daruulgyn huuhe) flowing from top to bottom in the form of massive cast silver rings (eemeg) and many pendants.

The length of these decorations ranged from 22 to 75 cm, and the width from 30-50 cm. Another type of temple-chest jewelry (huuhe-honho) was a necklace with bells.

Shoulder decorations (murenei guu, eemeg-shuretei, utakan sasagtai) were worn by girls and young women only from Khorin clans. It was sewn onto a robe (for a girl) or a sleeveless vest (for a woman). The decoration consisted of a silver base of a cone-shaped round or square shape, hollow inside and with a coral insert in the center.

Along the edges on both sides descended laces made of beads, corals, pearls or silver chains with silk tassels at the ends, two in front and two rows in back.

Young women and girls of marriageable age wore side pendants (hanzhuurga). This decoration consisted of two round silver plates (bekyn khantarga, bele), which were fastened on both sides at the level of the belt of young women, and on the belt of girls. Tongs, an earwig (kultibsha), and a toothpick (shudney shegshuur) were hung from one plate on a woven silk ribbon or silver chain.

On another plate hung a small lock, a miniature knife (hutaga) and a flint (hete). The pendants ended in lush tassels of silk threads in red, green and yellow.

BURYATSK NATIONAL COSTUME

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introduction

Buryat folk costume is part of the centuries-old culture of the Buryat people. It reflects its culture, aesthetics, pride and spirit. The costume of one of the multilingual peoples of Transbaikalia and the Baikal region has always attracted the attention of travelers, since they influenced the historical fate of the inhabitants of these regions, as a specialty, as on the landscape and nature.

Both women and men were involved in the production of Burjata clothing. A tailor must have a lot of knowledge and skills, in particular, he was an artist and an embroiderer, gluer and quilter, dealing with clothes, knowing finishing, color. Men's passport clothing shows its tribal (ethnic) identity and symbol, signifying its social significance.

At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. Buratovtsi retained traditional clothes. But in the mid-20th century, the national costume could always be found. Nowadays, the national costume of the Buryats can only be found at festivals or in productions. But the national costume, its connection, tailoring - this is the entire storehouse of the wealth of Buryatov’s national culture. The entire generation of people does not know their own culture, they do not remember the prior knowledge of their ancestors, they do not understand the beauty of folk costumes.

Therefore, the younger generation must not only recognize the national costume in Buryatia, but also know, appreciate and preserve it for future generations.

The goal is to bring the younger generation to the national costume in Burat.

1) Study the history of the development of the national costume.

2) study the varieties of national costumes.

3) Get acquainted with the ancient national costume of the Ayuev family.

The importance of our research is expressed in the popularization of the national costume for the subsequent development of interest in the culture of Burakh. The purpose of the study is the national costume of the Buryats. The subject of the study is the type of folk costume “Buryat”. Research hypothesis - the national costume Burjat is a memory of ancestors and culture for posterity.

1. Study of the national costume of the Buryats

first

1 History of the development and diversity of the Buryat national costume

The Buryat costume was the result of a long process of development from simple to complex, from utilitarian to aesthetic.

The material and production technique depend on the degree of development of the economy and culture. Buryatov's main activity was raising cattle. Sheepskins, leather and other recycled materials were used to make the suit.

Animal skins have been used for a long time. The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw a partial removal of traditional leather, leather, and the predominant use of Russian and Western fabrics. The latter is especially characteristic of Burj Hayat.

In Transbaikalia, Chinese cotton and silk threads continued to be used with Russian fabrics. Burjati used fabrics in smart clothing; The quality of the material and decoration was the costume of the rich.

It is worth mentioning the well-known unity of the Burjat costume. Trimming clothes at the waist is a feature of the Buryat costume.

Traditional costume, both men's and women's underwear, consisting of T-shirts (Samsa), wide-leg trousers (um), outerwear (degel) with a left-to-right wrap with special headdresses and shoes for Buryats.

Women's clothing is less susceptible to change and, as a more conservative option, retains many of the old features. A study of the cross-section of parts of the costumes showed the presence of two types of clothing: raspberries (Morina samsa) and deaf ones (Urbach, Uchany). Dressing a shirt is essentially a short dress with a left-sex flavor, it is called "kwanghi"; "tert", The deep shirt appeared in Buryatsk under the influence of the neighboring Russian population, which is characterized by such shirts.

There were two types of men's clothing. The first type includes ingested shepherds - nomads with a characteristic odor of "jestehas" (male fur). The second type includes the outer dress of the Burjat part of the Baikal region with a flat slit in the front, with the hem extending to the bottom. The clamps that touched the bottom reached the straight cutting mill. A special feature of the men's suit was the belt.

The material, technique and purpose were different: knitted, woven, woven with hair, wool. They were more elegant than leather with silver plates. Studying them leads to the conclusion that there was a younger collection, the belt was needed as an amulet, then the belt was a sign of masculinity, a distinctive sign in the hierarchy of service.

The decoration of the metal plates of the belts was deeply traditional and reflected the world view of its creators. These motifs are common to the decorations of other peoples of Central Asia and southern Siberia and are characteristic of different historical periods.

The headdress was varied, along with the traditional native Burjata, which they wore and bought. The differences were different in size. In Transbaikalia, clothing was associated with rich ancestors. The oldest is the "Juden" hat with earmuffs and a semi-circular neckline that covers the neck, worn in bad weather.

The Buryat from the Baikal region had a head with a round head and a narrow edge along the edge of the "Tatari mamay" (Tartare lid). The hat was also known here as a "hobby" hat. They were later replaced by the cube hat. A man's suit was a sign of the wearer's place in the hierarchy of services. The clothing worn was different from that of the employees. "People of Ulus" clothes made of cotton fabrics: dalamba, coat. The right to wear silk and brocade was the privilege of princes and the rich: the aristocracy wore blue dresses.

The artist depicting the dragon (embroidery, weaving) showed the high position and source of the bearer. The top with a high crown, with blue, white, and red stones, was decorated with an official's costume. Children of both sexes wore clothes like men. Before marriage, a girl could wear such clothes with a belt.

It is typical for women's clothing that they cut off the belt - the mill consisted of a wide wing and a gym, the sleeves consisted of puffs or straight without a bucket.

A married woman had no right to wear a belt. Women's suit according to age, the woman changed from one period to another and changed her marital status.

Buryat clothing

All this is accompanied by appropriate rituals. If, before the period of maturity, a girl kept a dress for men's suits who wore wings, big girls cut out the waist of the dress, but with sleeves, except for half a sleeve for men.

The decorative patch went around the waistband, married only at the front. Equipped with hair and jewelry, as well as a suitable and social position, the decorative peak was different from the costumes of other age groups. In the outerwear of married women, certain detail-based features were followed in the principles of decorative design and implementation. The elegant clothing of a young married woman in full uniform distinguishes a number of local subtypes.

Older women's clothing varied in simplified shapes and boundaries. The emergence of European style clothing is one of the most important phenomena of Burat women's clothing from the 19th and early 20th centuries. But elongated "Samsa" shirts in Transbaikalia and putting flat canvases on "Chaldean" yokes in the Baikal region have existed for a long time. In the costume of the Buryat Baikal region you can find a geographical - general department: the costumes of Bokhansky, Alyarsky and Vershlenen, which can be classified as Bulgat and Ekhirat.

It is interesting to know that one of the distinguishing features is the shoes.

1.2 History of the ancient costume of the Ayuev family

In 1987, ethnographers from Ulan-Ude came to visit the Ayuja family. Rumors reached the capital of Burdzhatsia, which was preserved on the left bank of the Angara in the ancient settlement of Zahoda, which is more than a hundred years old.

Anfisa, a grandmother who lived in peace for 101 years, left behind four children and grandchildren, and perhaps most importantly, a good memory of an unsettling feeling of love, wisdom, affection and caring hands. It was these hands that gave the legacy of the offspring an incredible thing - to degeld the old breed, but the national winter clothing of Buryat women. At the end of the last century, Anfisi gave this coat to her mother for her wedding.

It was very elegant and therefore it was used for some ceremonial occasions. Perhaps it degenerated when Ansisa Andreevna moved after the death of her sister and from her sister to her nephew Galina, still looks new. But for a century and a half, Degel has been a very rare thing. Galina Georgievna Polite guests of Ayuev are convinced that they sold the family heirloom for a lot of money, but left nothing.

Granddaughter Grandma Anfisa could not sell her memory to her beloved grandmother, but she is always happy at exhibitions to send degel. Let the young ones take a look at how their grandmothers dressed in the old days. In the end, this is the history, the culture of our people. Time will pass, and such clothes will be visible only in drawings and drawings.

Therefore, it is logical to begin describing degelation. The owner of an old Buryat dress, Galin Aueva, told us about this. “Dagel is an outer winter dress.” My prabado was a seamstress. Since then, the dress has hardly been restored. It is protected from leather and fur by hand. The core is long lamb covered in plush dark green, decorated with decorative lines: Chinese silk green, yellow and black velvet. Finished with fur (halyun).

The coat is quite long and well protected from steppe winds and severe frosts. Belt line cutting edge: consists of an extensive corset edge (viche) (HORM) which is screwed into the waistband and sews the sleeves (anchors). At the top of the coat, the hupaahi is dressed (with a black short-sleeved shirt made from a plate). The front side does not meet, the edges are finished with a colored strip of expensive fabrics and sewn with them with silver coins.

The addition to this coat was always a cap (bordeaux maegai), made of brocade and decorated with a fur hallinun. The crown of the cap is decorated with a brush of golden gold and copper threads (hall), and a silver coin is mounted on top.

Bella Fedorovna Mushkirova (cousin Galina Georgievna) said how they made arkhan (sheepskin) before sewing clothes, dressed in this sequence:

1. Soaked in yeast (sour milk) and left for 2-3 days.

2. Then they folded up the skins of the sheep and went away for one day.

3. After that, he took a rod 30-40 cm long and 6-8 cm in diameter, the back legs of the sheepskin wrapped around this stick. And the side of the neck was attached to the wall on a special tower and began to turn, then in one and the other 3-4 days.

4. Then the legs and knees made of leather shavings were bowed using special devices, removed with guar (a melted, curved knife with two handles) and Dimethyl hederge.

Sheep leather after processing sounded, for example. joked.

5. After changing clothes, the sheepskin was washed with water with the addition of a small amount of whey, then the hands, which sit in the sun or winter in close proximity to the stove, were crumpled.

6. In the copal herd, a hole was dug about 50 cm deep and 20-30 cm in diameter, pine and dried manure were installed there so that the fire would not burn, but smoke.

7. Then the two skins were glued together and a fire was set in the shape of a yurt. The skin was saturated with smoke, acquired a certain color, and only then was there external clothing.

Instead of thread, we used whales, which were also dried and then divided into thin strips in the form of thread. All these hard jobs were done by women.

conclusion

Life does not stand still, progress and civilization will change our lives slowly or quickly.

Our language, our way of life, our clothing - everything changes over time. On the one hand, such a phenomenon does not matter; everything in the world must change over time, develop and not stand still. On the other hand, in such a new course we are losing the unforgettable, dear and irreplaceable - our history and culture. And it depends only on us whether we can preserve our history, culture, memory of our ancestors and pass it on to our descendants.

Or cancel the old covenants as an unnecessary echo of the past and continue life without support, without the help of our ancestors, without the richness and diversity of our culture.

As a result of my tasks, I came to the following conclusions:

1) Burjaat folk costume has changed over time.

2) varieties of the national costume “Buryat” were subordinated to social status.

3) The old national Buryat costume is a memory of descendants, especially in the Ayuev family.

4) You will learn the hard work of peasant life from the story about this costume.

1. Materials offered by the school museum corner.

2. Materials from the family archive of Ayuev G.G.

3. Web resources: www.vikipedia.ru.

Annex 1

Natasha Prikazchikova shows the Ayev family costume.

Oksana Aleksandrovna Okhotkova 1

Modern stylization of the national costume is extremely popular in Buryatia. Stylizations of degel of different lengths are used, in the form of evening dresses and outerwear. The original cut of the sleeves, collars, with inserts with enger - a stepped pattern of colored stripes, and cuffs are used.

Fabrics also deserve attention - silk, satin with patterns and textured embroidery, intertwined with silver and gold threads, traditional bright colors - blue, red, green, yellow, turquoise.

In modern fashion, stylizations of the Buryat costume in the form of an evening dress, blouse, coat, embroidery with ornaments, traditional patterns are popular, satin ribbons and braid are used for decoration. Silver jewelry with corals, turquoise, and agate are actively used.

In everyday life, you can increasingly see stylized national shoes in the form of UGG boots, high boots, and boots. And also hats with fur in the national style in combination with genuine leather and suede.

The traditional Buryat costume is worn on major national holidays - Sagaalgan (White Month - the onset of the New Year according to the lunar calendar), Surkharban (summer sports festival), for theatrical performances, religious holidays, and meetings of honored guests.

Modern models of wedding dresses in the national style are becoming increasingly popular. Many artists use the national Buryat costume for their stage image.

In recent years, interregional competitions for fashion designers have begun to be held, using stylized national costume and ethnic motifs in their collections. Many interesting models from such shows reach the “masses” and become popular among young people.

Fashionable looks

Unusually warm and cozy models made of sheep wool with the addition of cashmere are very useful in the Siberian frosts. This can be a trouser version with a stylized top to resemble the national Buryat costume - a stand-up collar, a stepped border on the chest, an unusual sleeve, a hood. Or this is an option with a soft silhouette, tight-fitting but not restricting movement, with a maxi-length skirt or dress, with ethnic patterns. Wool is a thin and original material that provides warmth in cold weather and breathability in hot weather. By adding an original ethnic-style headdress, your image will become unforgettable.

An original outfit in white with silver contrasting trims and accents is suitable for an evening out and as a wedding dress. The interesting design of the bodice and the asymmetry of the shoulder with silver edging looks like a stepped enger insert; the side ornament at the waist and at the place where the cape is attached gives an ethnic and airy look. The vertical silver stripe on the skirt again evokes national motifs. At the same time, the length of the dress above the knees does not look provocative. By adding unique head jewelry with silver side pendants, you are sure to be irresistible.

Another look for an evening out or a wedding celebration in white with gold will be unforgettable. The national Buryat costume includes a cut-off skirt with a top, original gold embroidery in the form of an ornament, national jewelry - bracelets, a breast necklace and a rich headdress. The dress has short sleeves trimmed with gold piping, as does the bodice. A golden high headdress with decoration on the forehead and pendants adds femininity, stateliness and chic. The fullness and length of the skirt will emphasize the slimness of the waist.